India has a few problems: it is dirty, crowded and loud. Smell fusion is everywhere—cardamom-garbage, sidewalk-food-vendor-lentil-car-exhaust, and the curry-oil-tobacco-charcoal-tea blend—a deluge of scents providing memory road signs for the future. Car noise and honking horns are the concert of the city, from piccolo to crescendo and back. The sights and sounds become overwhelming and its difficult to see India past her problems. But beyond the funk and noise, the trash-lined streets and organized beggars, there is an India of personalities and people.